Xodos and the hermitage above

The hermitage above Xodos

Towering over the town of Xodos (also known as Chodos in Castilian)  you could find this remarkable hermitage standing alone and wild surrounded by rare low growing Spain conifers (forgot the name, but they are a protecting species).  At 1064 meters above sea level the views are understandably amazing. Both Xodos and its hermitage are not far from the beloved mountain of Penyagolosa.

Penyagolosa at sunset from my masia – every angle of it looks totally different

Xodos is hewn from on a rocky outcrop and beyond it stretches the  El Maestrat.  It is striking from the distance, but used to be rather forlorn once you got to it.  Sort of empty. Despite this, there were a few bars and a passable restaurant, Casa Ana. In recent years however more bars and restaurants have opened, people are doing up the old houses and it is definitely worth a visit. The nice thing about it is that it is not a tourist trap type of place. Its real!

a typical view from one of the many narrow streets of chodos

Apart from Xodos and a few scattered fincas, there is nothing but an open expanse of mountains and valleys and sky, but most of all sky. The figure next to the hermitage at the top is my husband, James.  He is very tall, and yet looks dwarfed next to this handsome building.  Unfortunately, the powers that be have recently installed phone masts next to it.  Will those in charge never learn?

Never mind, hmm. Let’s concentrate on the positive, like the secret corners you come across walking through this tiny village and that it will be a lovely, just long enough, walk for an excuse to  stop at one of the bars or restaurants!

Xodos is full of delightful nooks and crannies

And if you ever do spend a day at Xodos and leave in the dark, don’t forget to look back and up at its mysterious and startling beauty. You won’t regret it!

Xodos (Chodos) at night is very exciting to look at



  1. Ingrid Spiegl
    April 13, 2023

    As ever, beautiful photographs and descriptions. I agree with all the above comments and only wonder at someone spending hours looking at blogs….amazing! It makes me realise how lucky I am just to have your fabulous ones to enjoy. xxx

    • stephanie de leng
      October 8, 2023

      Well I haven’t even written many recently. They are backing up! TBH I had/have a problem with the IT side of this blog. Quite a disincentive I can tell you! Thank you as ever Ingrid! X

  2. May 18, 2011

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    • stephanie de leng
      April 13, 2023


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