Meet Charlies, uh, no John

`john greeted me at the bottom of his road © 2012 stephanie de leng. All rights reserved.

El Maestrat is full of characters that have wandered in from somewhere else. There is not only your collection of English, Dutch and German ex-pats, but also a wider collection of Spanish ones. Spanish I hear you say? Yes, Spanish, … Continue reading

Almond blossoms in spring

spain12-46459 © 2012 stephanie de leng. All rights reserved.

Now that the cold spell seems truly over, I remember why I love this time of the year so much. The light is clear and crisp, with that “born again” quality that makes images sharp and colours fresh and vibrant … Continue reading

From the farm to the plate

Asking the question © 2011 stephanie de leng. All rights reserved.

“This contains images that you might find disturbing” I have been learning about all the processes a pig goes through before landing on our plates.  After a number of hiccups, including being thrown out of the abattoir twice, a detailed … Continue reading

Fiery bulls on dark August nights

Looking down on a raging toro © 2011 stephanie de leng. All rights reserved.

  There are an awful lot of bulls around in August during which every village dedicates one week to a nightly bull-teasing.  Having experienced this traditional annual event from afar over the last four years, I finally actually started to go … Continue reading

The Bird’s Nest

The stone mason showed me the nest, beaming ear to ear © 2011 stephanie de leng. All rights reserved.

I have been waiting a long time to get somewhere with the drama of my masia. On The finca diaries I am writing about it from the beginning and here I am writing about it from the present and end-ish, … Continue reading

The abattoir and pigs

The abattoir looked soulful in the early morning light © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

Pork is big business here. Hardly a meal appears without its presence in one form or other. Every week I see the trucks packed to the gills with strangely quiet pigs, perhaps intuiting that they are on their way to … Continue reading

The Communion

spain-1705-Edit-1 © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

On Sunday it was exceptionally hot, even by Spanish standards. At around 6, my son Harvey and I drove into Atzeneta to sit in a bar and have a drink. As soon as we entered the village, it was clear … Continue reading

Bodega de Martin

Lupita is always cheerful © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

Some weeks ago Felix and I went to a restaurant in Benlloch, a village I would not normally linger in though I have driven through on numerous occasions. Felix, as I have written previously, helps me on the finca and … Continue reading

The real Ironman

Holding a hand forged nugget © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

Miguel is the local iron man, but much more than that. Miguel is truly an artist and makes amazing sculptures, some so intricately woven that it is hard to believe that they were made of iron. He has strong shoulders … Continue reading

Poppies in May

_SDL6772-Editdream-1 © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

Ever since my father sent me a postcard from Paris of Claude Monet’s Poppies at Argenteuil I have been in love with poppies. Nothing in the world looks as romantic to me and I think that it is the red … Continue reading

Dawn over Tortosa

_SDL0743-Editholga-1 © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

Tortosa is a crumbling city on the River Ebro about twenty minutes inland whose renovation has been halted by the deep Spanish recession. Much of the architecture is heavy with moorish influences and sitting atop this decaying pile is an … Continue reading

Abandonment and the past

Alone with the cats © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

I will not pretend that the old folk always eye me kindly. I in turn wonder about their pasts, about what they did in the Franco years. El Maestrat was heavy with his supporters, and I have been told it … Continue reading

The old traditions

_DSC2020sot-1 © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

Traditional animal herding is still a common sight in El Maestrat. I once showed these photos to a local of Atzeneta and she was horrified. Stephanie, she exclaimed, you cannot put this on your website, people will think we are … Continue reading

Pebble work

Pebbles and shadows © 2011 Stephanie de Leng. All rights reserved

The use of pebbles in flooring, both inside and out, is very common around El Maestrat from the mountains right down to the coast. They are generally inlaid into the floor amongst large smooth stones, but sometimes you will come … Continue reading